I just got back from a very relaxing weekend in Bordeaux and I've already started planning my next trip. Things have gone pretty quickly here and I suddenly find that I have only 7 days of work left and, counting today, 35 days of pure freedom before I leave France. Does that seem a little off balance to anyone? This is why I am researching Lille and Strasbourg today rather than planning my Easter-themed lesson for school tomorrow. This is also why I am practially dreading my return to Seattle and the
recommencement of a work-filled life.
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I got to Bordeaux after four hours of travelling on Saturday morning. Allison and Will met me at the train station and we went straight to Nicola's apartment to drop off my things. She is an assistant from Scotland who said we could sleep on her couch that night. We explored the city all afternoon - walked from one site
to the next in the pedestrian-friendly city center, ate the regional pastry (canelé: a caramelized sugar crusted bell with a thick, chewy dough in the center), and sat on a bench in a flower garden by the edge of the river. I like Bordeaux because it reminds me of Paris but it is filled with green and is much quieter. The buildings have the same lovely, cohesiveness of the Parisian style but the streets are more narrow and it is much easier to navigate by foot! (Or by the new, ultra-modern tramway that made me so jealous. Did I ever mention that
Angers is in the middle of a 4-year tramway construction monster? There are new
craters in the streets every week and roads are constantly being closed down or switched direction!)
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The next day we decided to wake up at the crack of dawn (literally, since it was daylight savings day in Europe) to take the half hour train ride to the coast. The plan was to get to the small town of Arcachon where we could catch a bus to see the "biggest dune in Europe." Unfortunately, the biggest dune in Europe is unreachable on Sundays when the bus system completely shuts down! We half-considered if it was worth the trouble of A) paying for two hours (there and back) in a taxi (my idea) or B) hitchhiking (Will's idea, crazy boy), before we decided to spend the day wandering around Arcachon.
It was freezing cold in the morning wind, but the bright clear day promised to warm up soon. So we headed into a seaside cafe for a second breakfast (a repeat of the croissant and coffee we had already consumed at the Bordeaux station). After lingering in the heated restaurant for over an hour, we braved the cold air just long enough to cross the street and visit the town's "aquarium." Those quotation marks are there for a reason - we paid 3 euro each to see about a dozen fish tanks!
"I think this is just the beginning," Will said uncertainly, after half an hour of gazing at the usual assortment of turtles, seahorses, anenome, and...trout?? Needless to say, it was a bit bizarre and something of a letdown. The star attraction of the dark, little room was a 2 foot octopus in a 2 foot tank - more than a little depressing.
"There was an upstairs too," Will added. So we trooped upstairs, right into a taxonomy museum complete with a fox, a badger, and lots of owls. The good thing was that once we had passed through the town's immense shell collection and seen the minature model of a clam catching fort (I guess we saw a lot for the price of admission to one aquarium) the sun had done its job outside and the temperature was walkable again. We bought sandwiches and desserts at a local
patisserie and headed up the hill to a tiny park where we sat on a bench overlooking the town and the ocean while eating our lunch.
After that it was back to the train station, back to Bordeaux and, two hours later, back to Angers. Allison is coming up to visit me this weekend and my two week vacation starts right after my 5th class tomorrow afternoon! Things are well.